Beer, Devon is simply stunning. The village is welcoming, the people are warm and friendly, and the beach meeting Lyme Bay sitting on the English Channel is gorgeous. The coastal cliffs are part of England’s first natural World Heritage Site known as the Jurassic Coast because they contains rocks recording approximately 185 million years of the Earth’s history. Now, THAT’S old!
As there is no harbor, all of the boats are winched with steel cables to the beach. The beach itself is made of rocks not sand and is surrounded by picturesque cliffs. Some refer to it as a “pebble beach” but they are the biggest darn pebbles I’ve ever seen. Rocks, they are rocks people!…and they’re reallllly hard to walk on. In fact, they are so hard to walk on that there are long rubber mats, recycled conveyor belts to be exact, across the beach just so you can wander along. While the front of the beach near the water’s edge is lined with quaint colorful fishing boats, the back side is lined with a kaleidoscope of small shacks that I assume hold fishing gear and beach chairs. One of the shacks, Kenno’s Tea Hut, provides rescue should you find yourself trapped on the beach at tea time.
In my infinite wisdom, I decided I should get off of the rubber paths and walk across the rocks down to the water. I just wanted to say that I’ve touched the English Channel. In retrospect, I can now see the error of my ways. Though it took me a good 15 minutes to walk 20 feet in the rocks on level ground, I was not deterred. My hands were going to feel that water. As I reached the slight descent, it didn’t occur to me that while walking on the level rocks was difficult and slow-going, walking down a slope to the beach’s edge would lead to sliding and rolling. And so there I was, not so much in a free fall but a speeding skid with the only thing to stop my slide being the Lyme Bay. If I could describe what I looked like, I would take you back to Kirkcaldy, Scotland and the story of the lassie falling off of her bar stool with arms flailing. As I avalanched toward feeling more of the English Channel than I had bargained for, I windmilled my arms in the air shouting “Whoa…whoa…WHOOOAAAA!!!” As some matter of luck would have it, I am a klutz. And thus, I stopped sliding due to slipping and knocking myself to the ground. I was only halfway down the slope but decided that it would be better to climb back to the level part of the beach rather than plummet into the water. So, while mine eyes have seen the English Channel, I opted out of touching it lest I be immersed in it.
Shortly thereafter, I climbed up the steps to the overlook and found Vince, Jim, and Craig. Craig had wandered a cliff path for a few miles and reported that it led to another town. He then looked at the other side of the beach and wondered aloud what lay on that beach path. None of us were about to go walking another mile but we encouraged young Craig to go discovering. He had on a bright orange shirt and so from where we stood though he became the size of an ant in our sight line, we could spot him running up the hill, disappearing around the bend at the top for a few minutes, and then descending back to where we stood. Jim asked, “Well, what’s up there?” We fully expected a report of a path to another town or some historical something or other perched on the cliff to protect the town from many seafaring enemies across the ages. Craig reported that what is atop the other cliff is “the cutest little trailer park you’ve ever seen.” Well, of course. Somehow it seems fitting that we sent Craig on an exploratory errand and he returned with a trailer park.
Not long after Craig returned, Jim Sellick showed up on the scene. Jim heard me several years back at the Kerrville Folk Festival in Texas. He is from the UK and we have emailed back and forth a hand full of times over the past few years. He sent me an email the week before I left to let me know he saw that I was coming to the UK and that he would see me at the show in Devon as it was a mere 15 miles or so from where he lives. Yes, Mr. Disney, it’s a small world after all. Just after Craig returned from the trailer park adventure, Jim S. found us at the overlook. He knew that if we had arrived in Beer by that time that we would be down by the incredible beach.
Jim S. joined us for dinner and introduced me to the joys of Devon cider. Good lad
Seriously good stuff! Earlier in the day, I had been introduced to Devon fudge made from Devon cream and it too was ridiculously good. I am certain that I will go back someday if nothing more than to partake in those two wonders again! But, hopefully, rather than merely splurging on Devon cider, creams, and cheeses, I will be able to take up an offer put forth by Jim S. to help me play in more places in the region on future endeavors.
From dinner, we all went back to our respective rooms at the charming Dolphin Hotel and cleaned up for the show. We performed in the banquet room of the hotel to a warm and receptive audience. We had driven down to the area a few days before (remember the Stonehenge blog?) to do a BBC radio interview with Vic Morgan. It seemed that combined with an extra promoter/local opening act helped bring people to the show.
In the morning, we piled back into the car to return to London and catch a flight from Heathrow Terminal 5 to Copenhagen, Denmark. My first blog regarding this adventure mentioned Heathrow Terminal 3 being akin to a third world country. Terminal 5 is the anti-thesis of Terminal 3. It is modern and spacious with fancy pants restaurants and lots of natural light. It is what Terminal 3, in the midst of construction, must aspire to be. I can’t say enough good things about the fine folks that work with British Airlines. They were friendly, helpful, and actually went out of their way to SAVE us money. What a concept. A bit of sushi in the airport for brunch and on to the land of the Vikings we go.
Copenhagen, Denmark here we come!